Earlier this month, the European Union announced a ban on a typical ingredient used in manicures and pedicures, classifying it as “carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction.” The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, often referred to as TPO (for obvious reasons), is a chemical that absorbs UV or LED light in a salon to help nail polish cure and develop that coveted hardened, glass-like glossy seal.
As TPO helps the polish stay intact for weeks, some consumers outside the EU now speculate about the implications of this ban for the roughly $6 billion global nail salon market and if they should be concerned about the safety of their favorite nail polish here in the United States.
Below, Erum N. Ilyas, MD, an associate professor and interim academic chair of dermatology in the College of Medicine, explains how consumers can help protect their skin during their next trip to a nail salon.
Considering this TPO ban, are gel manicures dangerous?
The EU approaches bans on ingredients based more on potential for the ingredient to have risks, in this case concerns about fertility and reproductive outcomes, but not based on cases of this having actually occurred. In animal studies, high doses of TPO (much higher than would be used on nails) were associated with fertility issues in male rats in particular.
This does not mean that all gel manicures are unsafe. TPO is a common ingredient but not the only ingredient used to cure gal manis. Other potential ingredients found in TPO free products include Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate and Trimethylbenzoyl Ditolylphosphine Oxide, also known as BAPO or TPO-L.
So, should consumers be worried about this going into their next nail appointment?
The amount of TPO found in gel manicures is very low and not likely cause for concern.
What are your thoughts about gel manicures? Are there health concerns that stick out to you?
Gel manicures may require the use of ultraviolet light to cure the nail polish. This has been the source of some controversy out of concerns of the potential for UV light to trigger the development of skin cancer. Interestingly, however, the type of UV light used for gel manicures tends to be UVA light. UVA has been linked to premature aging of the skin but not necessarily directly to the development of skin cancers. UVB is linked to skin cancer development. However, indirect UVA light through thinning of the skin may predispose an individual to be at potentially higher risk for skin cancer development. That being said, a recent published review of gel manicures found no evidence in the medical literature of an increased risk of skin cancer so far. Of course, skin cancer development may be delayed by decades after UV exposure and gel manicures. Gel nail polish has been around since the 1980s but use has been more widespread in the past 10 to 15 years.
Are there precautions that consumers can take before nail appointments to help protect their skin?
It is never unreasonable to take the added step to wear sunscreen on the hands prior to placing them under UV light. Lessening the risk of development of lentigines or sunspots, as well as thinning of the skin as a result of UVA exposure can be beneficial. I find in practice that many people are bothered by aging of the skin of the hands simply because we can see our hands and these can reveal our age! Alternatively wearing gloves with finger tips removed is also reasonable.
Gel manicures are overall safe. Although thinning of the nail plate or damage to the nail can occur from removing the polish, the long-lasting effects of gel nail polish requires less frequent removal. I have some patients with a tendency to pick or scratch their skin. For those individuals, I may recommend consideration to gel nail polish as it makes it more difficult to pick at the skin.
Having the nail technician apply broad spectrum sunscreen to the hands prior to applying nail polish is perhaps the best method of protecting their skin. Use of nitrile gloves with fingertips cut out or draping a towel over the hands leaving the fingernail uncovered can also help.
Do you anticipate any changes for United States consumers? Could we see such a ban here?
Although I doubt we will see a ban on this ingredient in the US, it is theoretically possible. I suspect the publicity around the ingredient and consumer safety concerns may drive manufacturers to reformulate options.
Reporters interested in talking with Ilyas should contact Greg Richter, assistant director of media relations at gdr33@drexel.edu or 215-895-2614.
